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Chapel of the Virgin, Church of Saint-Roch, Paris
Etienne Falconet’s Divine Glory shines upon the Nativity Scene, flanked by St. Jerome and St. Barbara.
Michel Anguier’s Nativity group replaced Falconet’s Annunciation, lost during the French Revolution.

Stuff of Dreams, n. 4: “service Buffon”

One of the the most curious things in the house museum Nissim de Camondo in Paris (see my previous post here) is the porcelain closet attached to the dining room.

salle à manger, musée Nissim de Camondo

Walk through the door to the left of the fireplace, and voilà! You’re in the porcelain closet.

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Tea service, manufacture de Meissen, c. 1750-60, hard-pasted porcelain

Shelves after shelves of beautifully pristine dinner, coffee, and tea service! The star of this porcelain fantasy is the “service Buffon,” a porcelain dinner set created at the manufacture de Sèvres around 1784.

service Buffon, c. 1784, manufacture de Sèvres, France, soft-paste porcelain with polychrome decorations © Musée des Arts Décoratifs

The name “Buffon” refers to George-Louis Leclerc, comte de Buffon (1707-88), the French naturalist, famous for his Histoire naturelle, the wildly popular and hugely influential encyclopedia cataloguing the knowledge of all known species of fauna and flora. His books were accompanied by thousands of engraved plates that illustrate natural history specimens.

Each of these porcelain dinner pieces features a distinct exotic bird species, inspired by the plates of Buffon’s Histoire naturelle des oiseaux (Natural History of the Birds).

L’Épervier (sparrowhawk) from Buffon’s Histoire naturelle des oiseaux, tome 1
Le casse noix (nutcraker), from Buffon’s Histoire naturelle des oiseaux, tome 5
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The gold-trimmed illustrations of birds are set against green background with the pattern of dotted circles,  called l’oeil-de-perdrix (eye-of-partridge). Some pieces also display grisaille cameos of antique profile busts.

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Imagine, in the time before digital photography and Google Image, a magnificent dinner served on these plates and bowls. Imagine the delight of uncovering these images of exotic birds as one works through the meal. Imagine the air in the dining room, thick with fascination and curiosity for these earthly, yet otherworldly creatures and the alternate universe they seem to occupy..

True Paris Magic at Musée Nissim de Camondo

Tucked away in the southeastern edge of the quiet and serene Parc Monceau in the 8th arrondissement is a small museum that is, without a shadow of doubt, one of the most magical places in all of Paris.

It is a place to which I’ve returned time and again, and each visit induces in me a state of complete enchantment.

Musée Nissim de Camondo.
It is dix-huitièmiste’s dream come true.

Grand Bureau, musée Nissim de Camondo
Grand Bureau, musée Nissim de Camondo
Grand Bureau, musée Nissim de Camondo
Grand Bureau, musée Nissim de Camondo

Built in 1911, this house was intended as a showcase for the impressive collection of 18th-century decorative arts of the comte Moïse de Camondo, the patriarch of a wealthy Jewish banking family. When his son, Nissim de Camondo, died in combat during WWI, the father donated the mansion, as well as its entire contents, in his memory to the French state, and the house became a state museum in 1935.

Grand Salon, musée Nissim de Camondo
Grand Salon, musée Nissim de Camondo
Bonheur du jour with Sèvres porcelain plaques, Grand Salon, musée Nissim de Camondo
“Bonheur du jour” (the name for this particular type of writing table) with Sèvres porcelain plaques, Grand Salon, musée Nissim de Camondo
a painting by Elizabeth Vigée-Lebrun on the wall, a terracotta tabletop sculpture, two candelabra, Grand Salon, musée Nissim de Camondo
a painting by Elizabeth Vigée-Lebrun on the wall, a terracotta tabletop sculpture, two candelabra, Grand Salon, musée Nissim de Camondo
Salon des Huet, musée Nissim de Camondo
Salon des Huet (named after the pastoral panels painted by Jean-Baptiste Huet) musée Nissim de Camondo
A pastoral panel set in a mirror, Salon des Huet, musée Nissim de Camondo
A pastoral panel set in a mirror, Salon des Huet, musée Nissim de Camondo
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Petit bureau, musée Nissim de Camondo

The house museum, one of the most impressive of its kind, is chock-full of treasures from the golden age of French furniture and decorative art, and every nook and cranny has so much to offer to the visitor’s enjoyment.

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View of the garden

Journées du Patrimoine: The boiserie panels of hôtel de Noirmoutier

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A boiserie panel at the grande salle à manger at hôtel de Noirmoutier, depicting a monkey blacksmith (?)–I’m not sure what it’s doing

In September 2014, I had the good fortune of visiting several eighteenth-century hôtels particuliers (townhouses built by the wealthy elites) in the Saint-Germain district of Paris during the Journées du Patrimoine. One weekend of the year, many of the national and municipal buildings around France open up to the public as an effort to instill a sense of appreciation for French national heritage. Hôtel de Noirmoutier, located at 138 rue de Grenelle in the 7th arrondissement, is one of the buildings I visited that weekend.

Entrance to hôtel de Noirmoutier
Entrance to hôtel de Noirmoutier

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